How to Remove Weeds From Paving Cracks in Australia (Without Spray)

The most reliable way to remove weeds from paving cracks without spray is to pull them when the soil is damp, using a narrow tool that reaches below the crown so the whole root comes out. After that, fill the joint so new seeds have nowhere to settle. A thin crack weeder suits most joints, a small knife works for shallow ones, and a spray can make more sense for very large areas. The sections below explain when each option fits.

Why weeds keep coming back in paving cracks

Paving looks like a hard surface, but the joints between pavers are not. Over time, they collect fine soil, dust, leaf litter and sand. Seeds blown in by wind or dropped by birds land in these gaps, and the joint gives them just enough material to germinate. Rain runs into the joint and the sand or soil there holds some of that moisture, which helps the seedling establish.

Once a weed takes hold, its roots grow down into the joint and sometimes under the edge of the paver, where they are protected. This is why weeds often look gone after a quick tidy but return within weeks. If you only snap off the leaves, or pull the plant so the root breaks, the part left underground can send up new growth.

 

Two things usually decide how fast weeds return:

• Root type. Weeds with a thin, fibrous root tend to come out easily. Weeds with a thick central root (a taproot) often snap, and what remains can regrow.
• What is left in the joint. An open, debris-filled joint is an easy place for the next seed to settle, even after the old weed is removed.

That is why removing the weed is only half the job. The next sections cover how to get the root out, and how to reduce what grows back.

The best time to pull them (soil moisture)

Pull weeds when the soil in the joint is damp but not soggy. The easiest time is usually a few hours after rain, or the day after. Damp soil loosens its grip on the root, so the whole plant is more likely to slide out instead of snapping. Check local water restrictions before wetting the joints on purpose.

Dry joints are harder work. In a long dry spell, sand and soil in the crack can set firm, especially in full sun. A tool can still reach the root, but the plant is more likely to break at the surface, and the root left behind can regrow.

If the joint is waterlogged, the job gets messy. Wet soil sticks to tools and gloves and can smear onto the paving, and loose sand may wash out of the joint. A day or so after heavy rain is often a good balance.

A few practical points:

• Check local water restrictions before wetting the joints on purpose. Rules vary by area and can change, so confirm them with your water provider. Waiting for rain avoids the question.
• Remove weeds before they set seed. A weed pulled while flowering or seeding can drop seeds as you handle it. Pulling earlier means fewer seeds in the joints.
• Put the pulled weeds in a bag or bin. Left on the paving, some can drop seeds or re-root.

Hand tools compared: crack weeder, knife and fork

No single hand tool is best for every joint. The right choice depends on how wide the crack is, how deep the root goes, and how much paving you have to do. Here is how the three common options compare.

Crack weeder (crevice weeder)

A crack weeder has a narrow, hooked or angled tip made to fit into a paving joint and lift weeds from below.

• Suits: Narrow, long joints, and weeds with roots that go down into the crack.
• Strengths: It is made for this job, so it reaches into tight joints that other tools can’t, and it usually keeps your hands upright and off the ground.
• Limitations: It is a single-purpose tool, and in very wide joints or on large weeds it may not give enough leverage.

Kitchen or putty knife

An old knife or a putty knife is something many people already own.

• Suits: Shallow roots and small weeds, especially in wider joints.
• Strengths: It costs nothing if you already have one, and it can scrape moss and surface growth.
• Limitations: A thin blade can bend or slip, and it may chip the edge of a paver or scratch the surface if you lever against it. Knives can also be a safety risk, so wear gloves and keep the blade pointing away from you. Knives can also be a safety risk, so wear garden gloves and keep the blade pointing away from you.

Garden fork or hand fork

A small hand fork loosens soil and lifts the plant with more of its root.

• Suits: Wide joints, gaps between uneven pavers, and bigger weeds with a thick root.
• Strengths: It gives good leverage and can lift larger plants.
• Limitations: The tines may be too wide for tight joints, and prying against pavers can shift or loosen them. If you’re unsure which hand tools you actually need, see what’s actually in a garden trowel set.

Which one to choose

Many people end up using more than one tool on the same patio. If you have a lot of narrow joints, a dedicated crack weeder tends to be the most comfortable. If you only have a few weeds, a knife you already own is a reasonable starting point.

How to get the whole taproot out

To remove a taproot weed completely, loosen the soil around the root first, then lift the plant straight up along the root, not sideways. Pulling at an angle or yanking the leaves is what snaps the root and leaves the underground part behind.

Weeds such as dandelions have a thick central root that runs straight down. Many other weeds have a mass of thin roots instead, and these usually come out more easily. If you are not sure which type you have, the way the weed behaves when you pull gently will tell you: a taproot resists and then snaps, while fibrous roots come out in a clump.

If the root keeps breaking:

• Wait for damper soil and try again, as covered in the section on timing.
• Work from both sides of the root with the tool to loosen it more evenly.
• If a small piece remains, watch the spot. Weeds that regrow from a leftover piece are often weaker and easier to remove the second time.

Some roots run under the edge of the paver, and you may not be able to reach them without lifting the stone. In that case, repeated removal of the new growth can slowly weaken the plant, or a targeted spray may be a practical option, which is covered in a later section.

Stopping regrowth after weeding

You can slow weeds down a lot, but no method stops them for good. The most effective approach is to remove the debris that seeds grow in, refill the joints, and keep up a light routine so new seedlings are caught while they are small.

1. Clear the joint first.

After pulling a weed, brush or scrape out loose soil, moss and leaf litter from the joint. That material is what new seeds root in, so a clean joint gives them less to work with.

2. Refill the joint.

Once the joint is clean and dry, fill it with sand so the gap is packed rather than hollow. There are two common options:

Whichever you choose, follow the product’s instructions. If your pavers are old or the joints are wide and crumbling, the results may vary.

3. Sweep regularly.

A quick sweep removes seeds and leaf litter before they settle. This is often enough to keep new seedlings down in busy areas.

4. Check for the conditions that favour weeds.

Weeds tend to return fastest where:

• water collects and the joints stay damp
• the spot is shaded and mossy
• a garden bed, lawn or plant nearby drops seeds onto the paving

You can’t always change these, but knowing the cause helps you decide where to check most often.

5. Pull small seedlings early.

Young weeds have shallow roots and come out easily with almost any tool. A short check every few weeks is usually less work than clearing a patio full of established plants once a year.

A note on home remedies. Boiling water, vinegar and salt are often suggested for paving weeds. Results vary, and salt in particular can wash into nearby soil and affect other plants, so check the surroundings before using it.

When a spray is the better choice

Spraying makes more sense when hand removal isn’t practical. That usually means a large area, a lot of weeds, or roots you can’t reach. It isn’t a failure of the no-spray approach, and for some jobs it is the sensible tool.

Situations where a spray may suit better:

• A large paved area with weeds in most of the joints, where pulling each one would take hours.
• Roots that run under pavers and can’t be lifted out without moving the stone.
• Regrowth from the same spot after you have pulled it more than once.
• Mobility or time limits, when kneeling and working along joints isn’t realistic.

Things to check before you spray:

• Read the product label. It tells you which weeds it controls, how to apply it, how long to wait before rain, and where it can’t be used. Follow it exactly.
• Think about what is nearby. Overspray and runoff can reach lawns, garden beds and potted plants. Wind and rain make this more likely, so choose a calm, dry day.
• Consider people and pets. The label states how long to keep children and pets off treated areas.
• Check where the water goes. Paving often drains toward gardens, drains or gutters, so a spray applied to joints can travel with the rain.
• Check local rules. Some councils and water authorities have guidance on herbicide use near drains and waterways.

Weedkiller spray and hand tools can work together. Some people pull the larger weeds by hand, then spot-treat only the spots they can’t reach. Others spray first and pull the dead weeds out later. Either way, refilling the joints afterwards (see the section above) reduces how often you need to repeat the job.

If you are weighing up different weedkillers, our comparison covers how the main options differ for Australian gardens.

Frequently asked questions

How do I get rid of weeds in my patio cracks?

Pull the weeds by hand or with a crack weeder when the soil is damp, lifting the root out whole. Then clear the joint and refill it with sand so new seeds have less to grow in.

How to permanently get rid of weeds in driveway cracks?

No method is truly permanent, because new seeds keep arriving. Removing the roots, packing the cracks with sand or a suitable filler, and pulling seedlings early can keep driveway weeds down for much longer.

How do I permanently get rid of weeds between pavers?

Nothing stops weeds for good, but you can slow them. Remove the whole root, clear out soil and debris, refill the joints with sand or polymeric sand, and check every few weeks for new seedlings.

What can I put in my driveway cracks to stop weeds?

Sand fills paving joints and leaves weed seeds less to grow in. Polymeric sand sets firm once activated, following the label. For cracks in concrete or asphalt, a crack filler made for that surface is an option.